" " " Boat Share: December 2010 "

Monday, December 27, 2010

Clay Dyer - The Most Inspirational Fisherman Ever

The story of Clay Dyer. This may be the most important 10 minutes of your life. Watch this video and realize that your problems are small compared to others.

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Tuesday, December 21, 2010

Nokia 18 ft Skiff in heavy wind

Team Nokia 18ft Skiff win in heavy wind

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Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Build a Fishing Boat - Make it Possible!

To construct a fishing boat you need to first want to consider fishing. Simply you would then desire to create a fishing boat. Fishing is a superb activity and also you discover a little bit of patience as well. Therefore when you begin to construct that most brand new fishing boat of yours you're certain that you are heading to develop lots of braveness as well as patience to head to the water to locate a great catch.

You might possibly purchase the whole boat package or even stick to the guide to assemble it collectively or you may develop a boat from the comfort of the beginning just by exploring the basic guidelines on the web. Whichever you've planned to accomplish, you definitely ought to remember that you could actually develop a fishing boat simply by obtaining online assistance that's available freely.

Purchasing a boat package is actually a less expensive remedy for easy factors like you do not need to spend on cutting and never having the precise dimension. Using the package you've the best measurements and also the marking that you should stick to. In this manner there isn't any waste whatsoever.

If you're creating your own boat it ought to ideally be considered a flat bottomed one because this is actually the basic boat creating design and it is simple to follow and also chances of creating a error in creating are bleak. Simply by selecting the flat bottom you are able to guarantee yourself that you could develop a fishing boat.

Whenever you finally begin the very first thing to construct will be the moulds that would assistance the transom, side planks and also the stem of the boat. In the event you need conditioning the bottom of the boat you could test utilizing powerful resin that's extremely resilient. This can be done following repairing the particular hull together and switching the boat upside down.

Ultimately obtain the boat returning to position and repair the seats, rudders, seats and also a motor if you need to or even it can be done by hand with oars. The stern ought to be put in the proper location in order to endure the boat rather than allow it to sink within the water.

Maintain your work of painting your boat for the last as it could get broken while you're switching the particular boat top beneath and also the other way around. You've constructed your own fishing boat and you are therefore all set fishing.

Fishing is yet another excellent journey you could take pleasure in and also when you're fishing in the boat your hands possess worked tirelessly on there isn't any other pleasure higher than that. Merely go through it and also sense your own heartbeat.

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Thursday, December 9, 2010

Hughes Sail Boats

The company that produces Hughes sail boats, Hughes Boat Works, was founded in Willowdale, Ontario, Canada in 1963 by brothers Howard and Peter Hughes. Originally, the company produced 8'-16' dinghies. Hughes Boat Works was the largest manufacturer of sailboats in Canada, until it was purchased by US Steel in 1969 and became Northstar Yachts, Ltd. in 1971.

Hughes Sail Boats

In 1965, Hughes began producing the H24, H27, and H38, their first racing boats. In 1967, Hughes Boat Works became a legal corporation with the purpose of manufacturing pleasure boats.

Designed by Howard Hughes, the H22, H25, and H29 were generated in 1968. When Hughes was purchased by US Steel, the Hughes brothers continued to contribute ideas, until the company's name was changed in 1971. Northstar went on to build Hughes' boats, but many owners believe that quality suffered somewhat as a result of the transition.

Sparkman and Stephens

Many of the Hughes boats were designed or co-designed by Sparkman and Stephens. Since 1929, Sparkman and Stevens has been world reknowned for its design of admirable sailing and racing yachts.

Sparkman and Stephens has over 2600 designs in pleasure, commercial and military crafts. Sailing yachts remain the most well known branch of their empire. Many of these have been featured winners in the America's Cup, Fastnet and Sydney to Hobart races.

Howard Hughes, President

Howard Hughes prided himself on the quality and craftsmanship of all the models of Hughes sail boats building with the principles of the "no compromise 'Proper Yacht Method'". The Hughes sail boats were built to last throughout the ages with top of the line materials of the highest quality.

All of the Hughes boats were built to be cutting edge in style and sophistication and well as speed and luxury. The phrase "interiors are our 'thing'", coined by Howard Hughes, was used to describe the comfort and workability of the Hughes interior. For Howard Hughes, the importance of safety onboard one of his vessels was not something to put a price tag on, and he did not believe in passing on the price of those "little extras" to the customer.

After selling the company in 1969, Howard Hughes bought back the then named Northstar Yachts, Ltd. in 1977 and renamed it Hughes Boat Works, Inc. Once again, in 1980, Hughes sold the company, this time to Aura Yachts. He would decide for the final time in 1986 to reclaim ownership of his beloved enterprise.

Hughes Boat Works, Today

Unfortunately, the legacy of Hughes Boat Works is not one that is actively contributed to today with new Hughes Boat Works ideas. In Orangeville, Ontario, 1991, what would be the present day Hughes factory was destroyed by a devastating fire. Since then, Hughes Boat Works has been out of production.

The ruination of the Hughes factory does not mean, however, that a Hughes sail boat is impossible to come by. Because of Mr. Howard Hughes' penchant for thoroughly designed, almost indestructible sailboats, numerous models can currently be seen sailing waters the world over.

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Friday, December 3, 2010

Boat Anchoring: Proven Strategies And Tactics For Safety

There are many factors to consider before you choose and deploy your ground tackle. Some of those considerations are outlined in this article. I have outlined this into phases so simplicity.

Phase 1- General Anchoring Terms To Know:

Ground Tackle: The general term applied to anchoring a boat (vessel)

Rode: Anchor line and Chain

Scope: Length of the anchor rode measured in units of water depth (8:1 ratio respectively) recommended

Shackle: A "U" shaped connector with a pin or bolt across the open end

Bitter End: The last part of the line

Have you noticed how many different styles of anchors there are? This can be especially confusing for the new boater. Some of the styles available are: Fluke, Grapnel, Mushroom, Plow and Navy. Newer anchors may be known by the name of the manufacturers such as Danforth or Fortress.

There are so many variables and requirements for adequate ground tackle, it's impossible to really establish a firm set of rules. Factors to consider are the type and weight of the vessel, characteristics of the ocean bottom found locally, the average depth of water in the anchorage area and the strength of the normal prevailing winds and currents. Unless ground tackle can be depended upon to hold securely even while the boat is unattended, it is not adequate. The bottom line is that there are many variables.

Anchoring Know-How Phase 2:

With knowledge of the general terms and anchor styles, we have decided on the anchor needed for our particular circumstance. Next is figuring out what the diameter and length our line should be before we attach it to the chain and anchor. Most of us will utilize 3/8" or ½" line. We'll use 3/8" line for boats up to about 4,000 pounds and half-inch line for boats up to about 7,000 pounds.

Larger diameter line will be needed for heavier boats. We'll need a length of line that will allow us to have a scope of at least 8:1 ratio in the depth of water we usually anchor. Most of us will have a minimum of 100' - 200' of line for our main bow anchor. I recommend having a second, smaller anchor onboard too. Use it as a stern anchor or lunch hook.

Deploying two anchors will allow you to anchor at the beach in close proximity of other boats without your boat swinging into your neighbors' boat. Having the second anchor allows you to deploy a smaller more manageable anchor while stopping for a quick bite to eat. This anchor should also have the same diameter line and chain as the main anchor with at least 100 feet of line.

Next, we determine the diameter and length of chain for the anchor. The size and weight of your craft will be factors in this calculation of the chain between the anchor and the line. Why do we need chain? The chain acts as a dead weight which assists in setting the anchor or digging into the bottom. There are different grades of chain, just to confuse us I think. Being budget minded, I use the Hot Dipped Galvanized type as most of my boating is in salt water.

We need adequate strength in our chain; ¼ inch chain has an approximate breaking strength of 5,000 lbs. while 5/16 inch chain has a breaking strength of about 7,600 lbs. You guessed it, the thicker the chain, the stronger it is. I use six feet of 5/16' chain with my anchors on my 4,300 lb boat.

Now we need to either splice or have spliced an eye with a Thimble in one end of our line. Through the Thimble we need to attach the chain by installing a Shackle and then on the other end of the chain we use another Shackle to attach the anchor.

Don't forget to insert a length of stainless steel wire through the head of the Shackle pin and around the shaft twisting its ends together. This prevents the Shackle pin from backing out over time. It is now time to do a back splice on the other end of the line to prevent it from unraveling/fraying. Of course, you can check out the pre-spliced Anchor/Chain Rode packages at your local marine store to save yourself time and work.

Anchoring Know-How Phase 3:

I recall a nice summer afternoon at a local beach. My friend and I were about 17 and just pulling up to the beach in my 16 foot Starcraft Aluminum boat. Bert was at the bow ready to deploy the anchor and I was at the helm. I looked to the stern to check the engine for a split second and when I looked forward, I observed Bert sitting in about two feet of water with the anchor in one hand looking baffled.

We had anchored that boat successfully many times in the past. This time however, he forgot the number one rule, keep feet clear of the line. He had become entangled in the line and as he threw the anchor overboard, Bert went out with it! This was good for a laugh as he was not hurt. It is best to lower the anchor, not throw it.

Another experience was on the other side of the same beach. With a raft of six boats spending the weekend, I questioned the size of the anchor my friend had deployed. Six boats rafted together is a lot of tonnage and in an area which normally has a nine foot tide and a 4-6 knot current. I had recommended deploying a stern anchor in conjunction with the bow anchor. This I knew would prevent the rafting boats from swinging during the tide change.

My suggestion was rebuffed as over-kill and I was advised that this is the way they did things for years without a problem. Early the next morning we all awoke to a terrific thud. We were nearly thrown out of our bunks. You guessed it; the anchor lifted during the tide change and as the boat swung it lifted the anchor which didn't reset itself.

We drifted until the out-drive on my boat caught the stern anchor-line of another raft of boats which swung us into that raft. This did stop us from going a bit further though, which would have been smack into a raft of Bertrams! Our insurance companies would not have been pleased. I don't know how, but there were no injuries or damage, just one more lesson learned.

Bonus Tip: Deploy two anchors when over-nighting in tidal waters.

Summary of Key Points:

o Practice your anchoring skills in areas of less congestion when possible

o Keep your lines neat and coiled

o Lower the anchor carefully, do not throw it

o KEEP feet away from the anchor line

o Tie off the bitter end to prevent anchor & rode from going overboard

o Replace worn rode

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